Introduction: Young man on the road to Jerusalem, 1938
Sukenik and the war of the archaeologists
Golda Meir and the post-Zionists
Kibbutz: utopia plus ninety
Eliachar and the Sephardi aristocracy
Rehavia: Kaufmann, Koebner, and the German Jews
Scholem and the Hebrew University
Shenhabi, the Holocaust, and Yad Vashem
Mussa Alami and the Arab-Jewish conflict
Gabriel Stern and the binational state
Recollections of Talbiyeh
Mea Shearim and the black hats
Musrara and the panthers from Morocco
Serfaty, Curiel, and the dilemma of the Jewish Communists
Dr. Sobolev and the Russian repatriants
Baedeker, the holy sites, and the Jerusalem syndrome
Epilogue: I saw the new Jerusalem.
